I knew the more I moved my hand around on the crimp the worse it would get due to sweat from my hand. 'As soon as I got the crimp, I knew immediately that something was wrong, it didn't feel correct at all, a reshuffle of the hand made no difference. Just had to do the crux. Right hand to the side pull, feet slightly up, left hand to the side pull, cross the feet over, throw the left foot high onto the edge, sit on the left foot, reach through to the crimp. From here, he climbed to the skyhooks and then Franco clipped the bag on to weigh them down, whilst also preparing himself to run backwards in the event of a fall. The first boulder problem went smoother than normal and he arrived at the cams quickly. Everything you could want in one area. Maybe that was the reason that I felt completely calm before the ascent. Just sat down, kept myself to myself for a few minutes and set off.' It's Isolated in a place where life is everywhere birds chirping, rabbits hopping around in the sun, the faint trickle of water from the nearby stream. 'Kay Nest is probably the most beautiful place in the moors. One last powerful move awaits to reach the jugs at the top, a sigh of relief follows.'īefore setting off on the lead, Tom took a moment to calm himself in the tranquil surroundings of the Moors: It's probably around a Font 7b+ boulder problem in isolation. 'The crux involves a delicate but powerful sequence using 2 side pulls and a high foot to reach a matchstick crimp, then pulling and locking off on the crimp to gain a good flat edge. Once the gear is in, there's the matter of the crux: From here a powerful Font 6b boulder problem ends in a rest just before the crux.'Īt this point - roughly 14m - two crucial skyhooks are placed in shallow pockets and weighted with a bag. 'The line starts with a huge span off a rail to get a good 3 finger pocket, about a Font 7a boulder problem or so before easier climbing leads to some good but shallow cams just below half height. Tom described the start of the route for us: He threw a rope down Divine Moments of Truth in March and found that with the right conditions, the crux felt achievable. UpdateFranco Cookson and Divine Moments of Truth H10 7a Read more
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